Follow Mike on his 2024 journey cycling through Thailand on his self-made bamboo bicycle. Check back often for updates!

March 25, 2024 - Picking up the pace

The cycling addiction is firmly set and I can't seem to slow down. I rode 6 out of 7 days last week and this week is on course to do the same. I will attempt to chronicle each day going forward, so no more skipping the boring rides. Somehow, I'll try to make all of them interesting. Indeed, every one is a rush filled with the unexpected.

Monday-Punthai group ride to the Thai navy base.

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/45872746?privacy_code=r2L8yXn5J5Oz2gZfcbh7w8BkzDqF2NmA

We started at 7:30 with 9 cyclists. Most I knew from past rides but we had one new American from Baltimore, my home town. Fancy that! I knew I was pushing it from the start, all these consecutive days of cycling, gym work, barhopping at night. I feared a good bonking was waiting to happen. Spoiler alert, it didn't happen. This group hates hills and loves speed and so the route was carefully planned for the flattest terrain possible without being boring. The Norwegian who planned this route did an excellent job. For the most part, I had no idea where he was taking us except that eventually we'd stop at km 43 Mahan coffee on the Thai naval base near Ban Saray. The roads are impossible to remember unless you live here and travel them every day. One incident occurred when we attempted to travel against traffic on a highway. This is common here but you had better be careful and know what you're doing. The new American guy freaked out and lost his temper with a driver of a car who nearly hit him. I think the driver was just trying to teach him a lesson but the American didn't see it that way. He broke the cardinal rule in Thailand, "Never lose your cool". There is much the foreigner needs to learn here. This place is the opposite of New Jersey. Always "Jai Yen" which means chill out. Stay cool and nothing will happen to you. Lose your cool and a glass bottle will be broken over your skull. Simple but effective in maintaining peace and tranquility, the way of Buddha.

Mahan coffee was an ideal place to chill out. The new American was laughing again with no damage to his skull. We had our coffee and high calorie treats and sprinted out of there along a beach road lined with palm trees. Then up a hill to the famous Sukhumvit road, the road cyclists love to hate. Immediately, the pace picked up to 40km/hr or 25 mph. There is no need to stop for 10 miles and it's full gas from here on out. One group of 5 split off to gain extra kilometers. One group barreled ahead thinking to avoid the increasing heat. I stuck with this group of the fastest riders. The Dutchman leading the group dropped me last Thursday. This time I stayed on his wheel. This is getting too easy. Is it me or the bamboo? The mystery continues.

We finished at 11 o'clock with a distance of 68 kilometers. The new American and I stuck together all the way and bumped fists at the final point. I'll see him again Thursday.

Tuesday-Jomtien Cycle club to Pratamnak hill

Once again only one cyclist showed up, the Dutch king of the hill. This is the guy who plans rides with the steepest and longest hill climbs. The Dutch are always extreme cyclists, this guy is a climbing beast. We met at 6 am in the street and all is calm at this hour. No time for pleasantries, he immediately shot off toward Pratamnak. There are speed bumps all over these roads, a lame attempt to control speed. Over the course of these 3 months, I've learned to disregard them. A well timed bunny hop and I barely graze the top with no need to slow down. From Beach road at sea level we make a sharp right at the end of the road and the climb begins from 0 to over 200 meters in less than a mile. There is only one very short flat stretch halfway up, catch your breath if you can and then the steep part begins which takes you to the viewpoint. I've never seen another cyclist up here. Tourists visit by motorbike or a few may walk up for exercise. We hit the viewpoint at full gas and for the first time I see the Dutchman struggling BEHIND me. I give him a minute to catch up and we fly back down the hill. I'll keep him in oxygen debt for rest of the ride. We have four more massive hill climbs to go and I know I've got him in the bag at this point. I drop him on the next four climbs and let him catch up on the descent. Now he wants one of my bikes, a bamboo convert. Is that all I have to do to convince people that mass produced bikes are no match for a handmade bike. One guy just spent 5000 dollars for a set of wheels! The bearings burnt out after a few rides. I'd gladly have built him a complete bike for that amount! Well, no matter what I do, I'm no match for commercial hype. In fact, I'm no longer interested in marketing to cyclists. The art market is my focus.

Wednesday

I could find no one to ride with this day. Perhaps because a tropical storm was heading this way. Early morning, all was calm until 8 am. Then the clouds burst and rain came down in buckets. This is the first time I did not ride here due to rain. More than two months of continual sunshine.

Thursday-Punthai group to Koon Coffee house

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/45912145

From coffee house to coffee house we ride like the wind. We had a large group of eleven. This group is still growing. We're getting cyclists from the International group who are tired of the fast boring rides. They complain that after a ride with this hardcore contingent, they feel completely wiped out for the rest of the day. It is that insane! The effect of this conversion is that the Punthai group is getting faster with each new member. The average speeds have increased one kilometer an hour with each ride. We did 72 kilometers today at an average speed of 26 km/hr on some of the worst roads I've encountered here. No one warns of a hole because holes are everywhere. When the road does open up, we're hitting 34-38 km/hr. No need to convert to American standard, it's faster than any SCC ride I've ever been on.

We took our break at Koon Coffee house which had an amazing jungle environment. The jungle was so dense that we drank inside due to fear of malaria or dengue fever. Live in SE Asia long enough and you might have this experience. I had dengue once. They call it Break Bone Fever for good reason.

The highlight was entering the cycle track on Mabprachan lake where the pace went full gas. I got boxed in as the group pick up speed to over 25 mph. There are no obstacles here except slower riders.

Some cyclists dropped off on the way back but the core held together where we had a late breakfast at a Thai hole in the wall restaurant. I talked with M, a Singaporean living in Thailand, who is studying to enter a Buddhist monastery.

I asked him if cycling is any help in this endeavor. Most assuredly Yes. Cycling relieves his stress and he can meditate with a much calmer mind. I concur with this appraisal as I feel much the same way.

We have a filling Thai breakfast of stir fried rice with vegetables and chicken, clear soup and water for 80 baht or about $2.25.

Friday-Ride to Mabprachan lake and 3 laps on the cycling track.

With plans of an overnight trip to the island of Koh Lan this morning, I wanted to get this ride done as soon as possible. To miss the ferry at 11 would mean a long wait for the next boat. We struck out at 6am arriving at the lake in 45 minutes. We did our usual three laps of the 10 km circuit and got back to base at 8:45. Excellent time! I was ready for the trip by 9:30. I hired a Bolt taxi, picked up some friends and got to the pier with time to spare. Beautiful, sunny day, calm sea. Walked off the boat, had lunch, found rooms and enjoyed a relaxing time at the tropical paradise of Koh Lan.

Saturday-No ride, still on the island until mid afternoon.

Sunday-Jomtien Cycle club ride to Radar hill and Ban Saray beach.

With this hill climbing club there is no avoiding a major hill challenge. Fortunately we took the easier way up this monster which has a more gradual ascent and intermittent stretches where the cyclist can catch a breather. I am actually growing fond of these hills. It's always more pleasant when you're the dropper and not the droppee. It's amazing that I haven't killed myself yet.

After we polished off the hill, we sped off down the highway. As an experiment, I decided to increase the speed to 50 km/hr until we reached the Ban Saray turn off. It was a question of how long I could hold it and whether I could drop these guys. They've been egging me on for weeks now, trying to get me to take the bait with no results. As soon as we circled off of highway 332 onto Sukhumvit highway, I shifted to the highest gear, stomped on the pedals and dropped them before they knew what happened. The element of surprise was key. They had never seen me pop like that before. For the next 5 kilometers, my speed stayed at 48-50 km/hr. They disappeared behind me until we regrouped at the entrance gate of the naval base. I later learned that they tried to catch my draft but the speed shift was too sudden and I never slacked off. A definitive drop must dishearten your competitors. I will henceforth behave myself unless they piss me off again.

Breakfast at the beach was a English breakfast all around with coffee. 140 baht. As we left the beach side restaurant we noticed a solo cyclist in front of us. Normally, they are slow and we quickly pass them but this guy was strong. He stayed in front all the way up the hill to Sukhumvit road and upon reaching the main road, he picked up the speed to 40 km/hr. We formed a single pace line behind him and stayed on his wheel all the way to Jomtien beach. I was tempted to pop in front again but I had no idea who this guy was, maybe one of the pros training here. Finally at the only light before Jomtien, we found out he was a French cyclist who rode with the International group. 25 mph on a flat road like Sukhumvit was no problem for him and he didn't mind doing all the pulling. We loved it! This guy was big, about 6'4". Perfect!

Distance was 70 km at 25 average. The last 10 kilometers was 40 average. Top speed on the flat was 52 or 32 mph.

The week's total was 357 km on 5 group rides.

For images of Koh Lan (Koh Larn) island

https://www.thailandmagazine.com/koh-larn/?lang=en

March 17, 2024 - Back in the Brooks saddle

The four days of rest and relaxation in Phnom Penh was just what this tired cyclist needed. Even though my muscles are sore and stiff after three consecutive days of cycling, there seems to be a lot more gas in tank. I'm finding the hills I struggled with before to be not so intimidating. I'm finding it difficult to stay back in the group and not pull away. I'm feeling way too good. There's no law prohibiting that in Thailand but it may be cause for arrest in the States.

I'm taking no days off this week. The Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday rides were a piece of cake. Thursday I'll join the faster Punthai group on a longer ride. Let's keep the momentum going.

The Punthai group assembles later than most groups. We got started at 7:30 with a group of ten, mostly Norwegian and Austrian but two Americans, one Singaporean and one Hollander. The route took us through the Chinese market with its narrow passageways, alleys and crowded streets. The pace was faster than last week and some riders struggled to keep up. Starting this late, it was already far too hot for comfort. Some cloud cover provided temporary relief. First stop was Amazon coffee in Ban Chang. These guys take long breaks. I think they like talking more than cycling. As usual, the one Dutchman pushed the group to pick up the speed. We sped out of Ban Chang to our next stop at the Bamboo bar. By the time we got there my water bottles were empty and I ordered a watermelon ice drink and one Sponsor, an electrolyte drink popular here. We had another long break and I was getting impatient to finish this ride and get out of the heat especially since I had a friend waiting for me in town. Saddling up after nearly an hour, we starting stringing out. The Dutchman set the pace way too fast and half the group dropped. I stayed with him until it got ridiculously too fast as the roads got busier approaching town. There have been far too many cycling casualties in this area, even some deaths lately, some of them due to reckless cyclists. Even when the cyclist is practicing utmost caution, the drunk or the cell phone zombie can end your days in the saddle. There are plenty of both types here.

The Friday ride to Lake Mabprachan started with a flat tire, my first one on this trip. I fixed it back in the room and we set off 15 minutes later just as first light appeared. I haven't forgotten my goals for this trip on the cycling track.

Goal one: Crest the big hill at the lakeside cycling track at 30km/hr. Attained 28 km/hr.

Goal two: Maintain 40km/hr on the flat. Attained 34 with some 42 km/hr intervals.

Close but no cigar on both scores. However, this is far better than last year's benchmarks. The old dog is learning new tricks.

Saturday we rest. Big music festival in town and lots to do aside from cycling.

The Sunday ride was the biggest hill climb test so far. The back side of Radar hill is usually avoided by cyclists but the gauntlet was thrown down. If anyone of my readers decides to cycle here, be sure to have a double chainring or at least 32 teeth on the biggest gear of the cluster. I'm riding a 1 x 11 with a span of 11-28 on the cluster. I'm sure 32 would have gotten me to the summit but alas, I stumbled 20 meters short. I didn't expect anything so steep. Next year, I will know better.

We finished off the route with a long, fast return on Sukhumvit road. This is where the high averages are reached. The last 15 km was between 34-42 km/hr with no wind.

Distance for this ride was 82 km with the week's total of 403 km, the longest so far.

Next week starts with a bang. The Punthai group is growing quickly with famously fast riders joining every week.

Hang in there. Only two more grueling weeks to go with the heat rising each day.

Punthai Thursday ride to Ban Chang

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/45838025

1) Wednesday ride over hill and dale

2) The perfect road with Canadian friend

3) The Punthai group at Amazon coffee

4) Punthai group at Bamboo bar

March 9, 2024 - Phnom Penh, the visa run

The temperature is approaching 100 Fahrenheit every day and for the first time, I'm using the room air conditioner.

Phnom Penh is actually south of Bangkok and due to its inland location it is hotter and more humid.

My normal routine is to get out for a brisk walk in the morning and find an outdoor restaurant with a western menu and fresh coffee. I visited a Khmer (Cambodian) restaurant the first night here and ordered beef breast with tamarind sauce, very tough to chew and an udder disaster. I'm no Anthony Bourdain.

The river road along the Mekong is very French colonial. One can sit at an outdoor cafe, sip your drink, enjoy good food and watch the activity on the river walk. The Mekong is one of the most important and fascinating rivers in SE Asia. There are river boats with restaurants and live music docked along the river walk.

For a more Asiatic experience, a short walk away from the river on any of the old streets will take the traveler back in time into another world of rickshaws, bicycle vendors and three wheeled tuktuks. Here French colonial and Khmer architecture mix together seamlessly and life on the streets rolls by lanquidly. This place is slow. I sometimes walk right in the middle of traffic. It's the only way to cross some of the busier streets. This is a trick that's difficult to learn if you're new here. It's easy to spot the inexperienced traveler standing at the corner for fifteen minutes afraid to step out into the steady flow of traffic.

J'aime Phnom Penh. Where else can I feel like a character in a Graham Greene novel. Ahh, Vietnam next time.

In the afternoon, it's best to hire a tuktuk to show you the sites. These guys are on every corner looking for fares. One can be hired all day for ten to twenty dollars.

After five, the sun is low enough to venture out for another exploration by foot. The best food is along the river, French, Thai, Indonesian and Indian are my favorites here. You'll pay a little extra for the view and the fresh breeze off the river but for less than ten dollars you can eat in style, order beer or wine and relax for hours if you like. This is a city where the traveler never needs to rush. Take it slow and become the quiet American.

Four days went by quickly. I visited all my old haunts and was disappointed that my favorite hotels, restaurants and bars had closed and gone out of business during Covid. But new ones have spring up in their place. Phnom Penh is slowly recovering once again. The resilience of these people always amazes me. New buildings are going up everywhere and everyone is busy.

It's time to check out and I'm sad to leave this exciting place. I made friends here that I'll never forgot. The only consolation is that I'm going back to Thailand, to cycling and the final stretch of my 3 months journey. New adventures await. I'm prepared to hit the ground running.

1) Busy corner near hotel and tuktuk

2) Lady selling limes from her bicycle

3) Bicycle rickshaw

4) Khmer architecture at a temple

5) The Mekong at night and party river boat

6) Eating out Cambodian style

Why Thailand?

Mike Savage asked me this question before the DFH Wednesday ride. My response was "Why not?". I didn't have time to give a complete answer. So, I'll drop you a short but more complete response and perhaps you can pass it on.

Perfect weather. January to April is the cold season, no rain and "cold" temperatures 85 Fahrenheit.

Low cost. My apartment near the beach with all amenities is 250 USD month.

Good food. Mountains of tropical fruit, seafood, Thai food at a low price 3 USD and for a higher price 10 USD, any form of ethnic food, European, Indian, Australian, Malaysian, etc.

Beer. Chang, Leo, Singha, and imports. 2-3 bucks at a bar.

Coffee. Grown in the mountains around Chiang Mai.

Ahh, cycling. Good shops, many clubs of all levels, Thai clubs, mixed Expat clubs, open roads many with dedicated cycling lanes, beautiful scenery. Lakes surrounded by cycling tracks. No fees, just show up and say hi.

Safe and friendly. The "Land of Smiles" aka LOS. I've been to many places and have had a few experiences but Thailand has always been an easygoing place.

In a nutshell, I can stay here all winter for the cost of one weekend at a ski resort or a European destination. Beat that Majorca!

See you guys soon after April 4,

Mike taking a break from cycling in Phnom Penh

1-2) Cycling on the left side of the road with cycling lanes. 

3) Apartment view

March 6, 2024 - Monday Punthai group ride before Phnom Penh visa run

My first ride with the Punthai group started at 7:30 am from the Punthai coffee house. We had seven cyclists; 3 Norwegians, 1 Hollander, 1 Austrian, and 2 Americans. The other American was from California and lives permanently in Thailand, another "I swear I'll never go back". There are essentially two types of expats, the wanted and the unwanted. I suspect the Californian was of the unwanted.

A Norwegian led the group and it was well paced taking a nearly direct route to Punyangyong coffee house in Rayong province. The hardest part was two kilometers of dirt road with a steep ascent, soft sand, wet sand and gullies. The group was surprised that I didn't walk.

The coffee house was set off the road on a hillside surrounded with tropical gardens. I had been here once before and it's quite popular with the area cyclists. I have yet to have a beer with any cyclist, it's always a coffee in some sort of jungle coffee bar. The microbrewery trend is unknown here but coffee bars are taking off like a rocket.

No time was wasted going back to town. This very experienced group, some life long cyclists, sped up to over 30 km/hr for most of the return stretch. The total distance was 75 kilometers, 25 km/hr average and 50 km/hr maximum. No one was dropped.

I usually don't mention the average speed on these rides because with the groups I have been riding, the averages are quite unimpressive, 15-16 mph. This is a good thing because the road conditions here are nothing like those of Sussex county. There are faster groups with averages over 20 mph but they stay on the highways with wide shoulders and gradual inclines but mainly flat. They are also boring and tedious, no jungle bird calls, no lakes, no mountains, no temples, just watch the wheel in front of you and pedal your ass off. Ahh, you know the type! So with these slower rides, I get a wider range of experience and it's experience that I'm here for. I'm getting distance, long climbs, steep climbs, bike handling expertise and when the road does flatten out, we may be pumping along at 20-25 mph for 10 kilometers or more. For someone like me who is still a novice at this sport, this is total immersion.

Here is what I can do when I return from Cambodia: ride with the pros a few times, the hairy scary carbon fiber fanatics. I know the main roads well enough and when I'm inevitably dropped, it's a simple thing to find my way back to base. All I have to do is hang on to Eddie Merkx's wheel as long as possible. I have no shame, no ego to massage. I've reached a level of Zen-like composure on my Brooks saddle that cannot be perturbed. Where else but Thailand! Hey, got to keep it interesting!

The Monday ride with Punthai group

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/45747327

1) Dirt road with long hill climb, the average killer

2) The Punthai group of expats at Punyangyong, California expat in foreground

3) Hark! We have a video clip 1709548633847.mp4

March 3, 2024 - Phy sical break down

I am not a kinesiologist but I know when I'm tired. I've been doing over 300 kilometers each week lately and going to the gym every day. After a near metric century ride of 93 km on Wednesday I decided to take a break. This ride had some of the longest continual inclines that I've encountered here and of course I had to be riding with guys with featherweight bikes who eat hills for breakfast. My bamboo bike is made for the flat terrain of Sussex county, not this roller coaster country. Enough lame excuses, it's just tough going here and if you hate hills, stay home. Unfortunately, I don't have that option. Instead I took 3 days off, no cycling, no gym and I was miserable. Once you develop this sort of physical rhythm and discipline, it's hard to bear the idle time needed for resting.

By Sunday, I was ready to ride again. It was difficult starting out at 6 am. I had been staying out late into the night and barhopping with friends. There are more bars here than anywhere I've been in the world. There are streets and more streets with nothing but bars and massage parlors. Extreme temperance is required, some travelers have it and some spiral downward into oblivion. That's all I will say here on that subject. Buy me a beer at DFH or Revelation brewery and I'll share the details. I have to get some return on this investment.

Carousing to 2 am is no way to improve your cycling abilities and I paid the price this day. Fortunately, a hot coffee at Phufa Coffee house and a bag of oatmeal cookies quelled the nausea I felt for the first 40 kilometers. I love this coffee house. I get a chance to meet cyclists from far and wide, old friends and new friends. The coffee is supreme, all from the highlands of Thailand and Laos, freshly roasted and ground, served piping hot and always with that Thai smile and hospitality. There must have been twenty cyclists assembled at this spot while I was there today. What a great international bunch; Nederlands, Austria, Sweden, Canada, England, all joking and sharing stories. This is another great reason to cycle here. It's a global get together, a planet wide bicycle jamboree. Man, the smell of sweat was overpowering!

At the end of the week, my total distance was way down, only 190 kilometers on three group rides. However, I did learn the importance of rest and explored other activities aside from cycling. Next week I leave for Cambodia and I'm doing it the easiest way possible by flying. This place makes it so easy. I can hop on a songthiaw, aka baht bus, to the bus station. From the bus station, it's a two hour ride to the Suvarnabhumi international airport. After a short flight, I'll be in Phnom Penh, take a taxi to the hotel in the downtown area where I have a reservation at a boutique hotel with four days of Cambodian culture, cuisine and long walks along the Mekong river. I've been to Phnom Penh many times and it's one of my favorite SE Asian cities, chaotic and fascinating. The post for next week will be bookended by cycling related material, I plan to ride with a new group on Monday and ride on Sunday after I get back to Jomtien. But most of the week I'll be in Phnom Penh and it is one crazy place. Stay tuned my cold weather cycling friends, it's going to get hot!

1) A typical easy ride into the countryside of Chonburi province, Thailand

February 24, 2024 - New groups and first experience getting dropped in Thailand

It's a fact that every cyclist lives with, at some point on your upward trajectory you're going to get dropped. The PTT cycling club has some of the best cyclists in this area and I was daring destiny to shoot me down. My first ride with this club last week went very well. I finished closely behind the lead group for the entire 88 kilometers. However, this week had a different dynamic, some younger, top notch cyclists joined the ride and the pace picked up considerably. Once again we headed off down the main highway and turned off into the countryside of Buddhist temples, a wildlife sanctuary and plenty of hills. At 45 km I was still with the lead group as we stopped at the Phufa Coffee house. I thought I had it made until we picked up another cyclist at Phufa who turned out to be the strongest cyclist, the best climber and the best sprinter for the whole group. Right away I started hearing stories about this guy from the other riders. He looked like a human torpedo on the most aero bike I've ever seen. Even his kit was aero, not a wrinkle or fold could be seen. I kept up fairly easily as long as I stayed in the pocket but hubris set in and I decided to take the lead and pull. By the time we reached a minor highway, my legs were spent just as they decided to kick it up a notch. Speeds were inching over 36 km/hr. At km 65, I swallowed my pride and fell back hoping to find my way back to town the shortest way possible. The nice thing about dropping is you now own the ride. I picked my way through temple complexes, around lakes and over monkey trails all the time looking for the tall condominium and hotel buildings that mark the beaches of Jomtien. One half kilometer from the starting point, I passed the whole group as they waited for a red light to change. I passed them at full speed and disappeared into a narrow alleyway that leads to my rented condo. The ride ended at 94 kilometers. Back at my apartment, I drank electrolytes for several hours. This was the closest I've come so far to dehydration. The heat continues to rise and temperatures are expected to exceed 40 Celcius soon. Time to purchase another bottle and more electrolyte powder.

During the recovery Wednesday ride, I met some members of the Punthai cycling group at the Jungle Coffee bar. I never heard of this group before but they meet at the Punthai coffee house twice a week. This cafe is right outside my condo about 5 minutes walk in distance. I get invited to join lots of groups here. They all want the weird guy on the bamboo bike in their club. I could ride every day of the week but I'd be worn down to a splinter by these people. Four rides a week must be my maximum with 3 days of rest. I'll fit this group in somehow. I hope they're slow.

After a long (90 km) and arduous Sunday ride over some of the longest hills I've encountered so far, my total for the week is 323 km. There's always the fear that I may be overdoing it. Those cyclists that are more well rested seem to suffer less on the hills. I'm now looking forward to a week off in Cambodia. This will be my first and only visa run on this trip. My Thai visa expires March 6 and my flight to Phnom Penh leaves March 5. Four nights are booked at a boutique hotel in the art and museum center of the capitol city. The round trip Bangkok-Phnom Penh is about 125 USD. The hotel is 25 USD a night, a bit high by my standards but the location is excellent, along the Mekong river. March 9 I will be back into the cycling, refreshed and ready to take on the Dutch torpedo.

Another glorious week in Thailand has come to a close. Yes, it's darn hot but not one ride has been cancelled thus far. I've experienced only 2 brief periods of rain which comes down hard and heavy. Whenever there is cloud cover we cyclists are thankful. The sun can be merciless. This area is not too bad due to its proximity to the sea but once you get further inland the heat can be incendiary. I've been offered the chance to join some tours but riding in this heat during the afternoon would be life threatening. No thanks! I'll stick with the early morning rides that finish before noon.

To those who have followed this journal thus far, I thank you for your interest. Sorry, I cannot provide more visual content. My immune system still considers a cellphone to be a foreign object. I sincerely hope that the weather in Sussex county is improving and all the rides are picking up steam. Cycling, there ain't nothing like it!

Mike in Thailand

February 20, 2024

That was a nice break from the ride reporting here in Thailand and I'd like to welcome back Allen and Marilyn from their adventure in Antarctica. Amazing trip no doubt.

Conditions here in Thailand have changed since early February and unfortunately not for the better. The problem is air pollution at an unhealthy level with some days in the red and orange zone of the AQI. Many cyclists have opted to stay indoors as a result. The cause is mainly due to the burning of sugar cane and rice fields which is traditionally done this time of year. The practice is banned these days but continues unabated. For the cyclists this means irritated lungs, eyes and sinuses. For better or worse, I haven't let it stop me.

Since I left off the reporting, the weekly average is still between 250-300 kilometers per week with four group rides per week. A few of these rides have reached over a hundred kilometers but most are around eighty. In order to gain more experience, I've replaced the Tuesday hill climbing sessions with Jomtien Cycling club for rides with another group. This group, known as the PTT Chayapreuk group, meets several times a week at a gas station on a main intersection. The start time is 6:30 am and the ride is seldom specified. The destination, route, and speed are always to be determined. All I knew was that Tuesday was typically a long, fast ride to Phufa Coffee house in the neighboring province of Rayong. There is no sign up. You show up and go. It's a bit intimidating especially if you're new to the club. All their rides are drop rides, no mercy is given. In preparation, I downloaded maps on my cellphone, enough information to find my way home if I got dropped.

Due to the high pollution level only 10 cyclists showed up. We had 3 Austrians, one Brit, 2 Canadians, one Thai, one Norwegian and 2 Americans, me and a fellow from Fort Worth. Some of these cyclists looked particularly fit and had the precious advantage of youth. I usually don't drink water before a ride but I had dry mouth from sheer nervousness. I'd been told for a year now that this group was fast and would drop me at the first hill. Fortunately for me, they weren't feeling spirited this day and kept a steady, reasonable pace. We did drop four cyclists on a long hill climb but all rejoined the group at Phufa Coffee. We were 50 km into the ride at this point with no stops. Somehow, I stayed with the lead group all the way. There was very little drafting for the most part and none of the coordinated pace line formation that SCC uses. Again, a herd of cats on two wheels.

The ride back to town was more direct. After another stop at the Many Coffee Farm, we cut the ride short by hopping on route 3 known here as Sukhumvit road. Since this road parellels the coastline, it is largely flat and the pace really picks up. Here a paceline usually develops with the strongest rider leading the way. Speeds here usually fall between 36-40 km/hr with this group. If there is any road that compares to Sussex county cycling, it is this road. By the time we near town, cyclists are peeling off to go their own separate way and for the last 5 km I find myself alone and picking my way through the chaotic streets of Jomtien beach. My distance for the day was 88 km. Arrival time was 11 am and the heat was on. The reward for my effort was a cold shower fully dressed in my cycling kit and the satisfaction of keeping up with a group of cycling fanatics. I never pulled once but I rode solo at 36 km/hr for most of that 10 km home stretch on Sukhumvit.

Next Tuesday, we'll try the same ride again. At least I'll know where I stand now, not the fastest to be sure but a contender. They'll have to pick up the pace a good bit before I drop. Total for the week was 320 kilometers thanks to the extra distance with the PTT group.

1) Waiting for the start at PTT station

2) Meeting other groups at Phufa for coffee

A good time was had by all at last night's Sussex Cyclists Bowling Party!

1st place went to John, Joell, Lee and Fran. 2nd place wen to Scott, Ken and their wives. Third place wen to "T" (Taniea), Fern and Tom. Tom also one High Game.

Thank you to the Social Committee (Diane Daly, Joell Giler, John & Linda Kurpjuweit, Heidi Lerch, Allen Segal, and Denny Shook) for making this happen. And a special thanks to Denny for the great photos below. 

Click here to read the article.

On July 21, 2024 I will again be joining over 2500 cyclists to raise money for the Families Behind the Badge Foundation. If you can afford to donate I’m extremely thankful, if not please pray for all to have a safe ride. 

Click here to donate: Rider/Fundraiser 

Thank you!

Denny Shook

Here’s a ride I’m doing this June. It’s a bit ambitious but please consider joining me, if you can. It’ll be a life changing experience. 1,200 Miles Total.

More at www.911trail.org or contact me.

The article below was written by Joe Ciccanti of The Talk of Delmarva, February 1, 2024 

The Town of Slaughter Beach and the City of Milford want safer passage between their towns across Route 1 – the main thoroughfare to the beaches running north/south through the state and separating the two communities. The goal is to expand safer passage for pedestrians, cyclists and mobility restricted riders. The town and city are working with the University of Delaware Grant Assistance Program (GAP) team to complete the application process, coordinate the site visit, and manage all the steps required by the grant issuer, the US Department of Transportation. In January, the Town of Slaughter Beach with the City of Milford hosted visitors from Main Street America (MSA) in connection with the goals. Participants in the two-day event included representatives from the Department of Transportation Byways, Sussex Cyclists, and Southern Delaware Tourism.

Additional Information from the Town of Slaughter Beach:

Knowing the goal and getting to completion will be a long task but all parties are deeply invested in improving access to the beach with its park facilities, and potential for education and understanding of the environment with the commerce and employment opportunities in the City of Milford. This Milford/Slaughter Beach project would have a big impact in promoting use of Milford as a shopping/eating destination and improving a safer crossing would help Slaughter Beach to remain a quiet beach community working to preserve and protect the natural environment while having more opportunities to educate regional residents about the Marvel Salt Marsh, Delaware Bay, and Primehook National Wildlife Refuge – each offering diverse eco-systems and wildlife sanctuaries.

Participants in the two-day event included representatives from the Department of Transportation Byways, Rails to Trails, Rural Community Assistance Partnership, DuPont Nature Center, Abbott’s Mill Nature Center, the Delaware Sea Grant, Delaware Greenways, University of Delaware Coastal Resilience Design Studio (CRDS), Sussex Cyclists, Southern Delaware Tourism, Dover/Kent Metropolitan Planning Organization (MPO), and Bike Delaware.

The Town of Slaughter Beach (https://slaughterbeach.delaware.gov) is a quiet waterfront community along the Delaware Bay coast at the northern tip of Sussex County.  Home to the annual Horseshoe Crab spawning which is closely followed by the endangered Red Knot’s stopping to feed on their annual spring migration, the beach is a draw for birders and sunbathers alike.  Bordered by the beautiful Delaware Bay and backing to Prime Hook National Wildlife Refuge as well as the Marvel Saltmarsh Preserve, residents take great pride in their stewardship of Osprey nests, Diamondback terrapins, and Horseshoe Crab preservation.

Follow Mike on his 2024 journey cycling through Thailand on his self-made bamboo bicycle. Check back often for updates!

January 31, 2024 - First crash and transitioning to new groups

This will be the last week of reports until Allen and Marilyn return from Antarctica. They will leave the end of this week, so bon voyage and some words to Allen, "Leave them penguins alone!"

I'm in my fourth week here and I've been asking around town for info on the many other groups. I see them on the road, meet them in coffee shops and field their many questions about the bamboo bike. It's getting time to link up with them. I'm now in full knowledge of their meeting places and times. As for speeds and styles, I know nothing except they're probably faster and more reckless than what I'm used to here.

It looks like a slow week. The weather is still excellent but there have been many illnesses and mechanical problems with my usual groups. Our numbers are way down. Only one Dutchman and I went out this morning for the hill assault.

Here's the danger in Thailand. We're riding in darkness with our lights on climbing a hill on a busy road. A truck is parked blocking the shoulder and part of the road. I pull out to avoid the truck and at that moment a motorbike going the wrong way appears and is heading straight toward me. I stop in time to avoid a head on collision with the motorbike and the Dutchman rear ends me. We're completely entangled but somehow there is no obvious damage. We do what everyone does in Thailand, we pick ourselves up and continue. None of that insurance information exchange protocol. I've seen huge smashups here and if there is anyway for the vehicles to continue moving, they will. Now you know why everything is cheaper here...NO LAWYERS!

Well, the bamboo bike has some scratches which I can repair easily at home in the shop, a little sanding, a little brushwork and it'll be good as new. If it was carbon fiber...I won't even go there, too easy of a target.

The hill climbing is getting easier each week. The workouts in the gym, the swimming, the climbing of eight flights of stairs to my room and the 10 km evening walks each day are having a positive effect. It doesn't take long for the Thai transformation to occur. I eat more fruit, more vegetables and more seafood here than in the States. Mostly, I eat in my room but once a day, I eat out and it's always a Thai dish of excellent taste and quality. If for no other reason, come to Thailand for the food. The Thai restaurants in the States cannot compare in freshness and flavor.

Wednesday was just a scenic ride in the country. 75 kilometers to the beach areas, sea side coffee shops and back to town by 10 am. Many cyclists dismiss the slow, scenic ride but they can have enormous benefits. This is supposed to be fun after all. Apart from that, one can make a good workout at slower speed. Shift to a higher gear than usual and grind, practice standing on the pedals, or work on pulling upward on the pedals. Think of it as a gym session but without the barbells.

I expect the rest of this week to be a repeat of last week and to keep Marilyn's web site work to a minimum, I will sign off until her return from the southernmost continent. Hopefully by then I will have reports on the international groups, the Thai clubs and maybe even some groups of Thai lady cyclists. At least we can hope.

Bon voyage mes amis,

Mike in Thailand, the Land of Smiles

1) Cappuccino at Bang Sarai beach

January 28, 2024 - Week 3 wrap up and monthly costs

For Sunday and the last ride of the week, we had a group of seven. Half of the group split off after 35 km to Phufa Coffee house and my group went a bit farther to Dog Shit hill. Sorry, but that's the word for word translation. So named for its rather flat, sloppy aspect and its lack of vegetation, brown all over. What a roller coaster! I'm getting used to the long, steep climbs here but going downhill is still another matter. We reached 65 kph several times. The Thais descend with complete abandon while I'm covering the brakes praying for deliverance. This is the fastest I've ever cycled in my life. As most of you know, I'm still new at this. My first group ride was May 2022 with Sussex Cycling Club and I got dropped on the Friday Beer trail.

We stopped at a beautiful restaurant with a garden setting for drinks called PhuYangNong. This was way out of our normal zone and probably the reason we met so many Thai cyclists. Some on Colnago bikes but many more on Cube.

On the route back to home base, Jittawan, the Thai lady cyclist, and I had brunch at a Thai roadside stand. 70 baht or 2 bucks for stirred fried rice with vegetables and two eggs.

The day's ride total was 78 km making for a week total of 276 km = 171.5 miles.

Having paid all bills for January, I can give some figures for the cost of living here.

Rent for apartment 10,000 baht

Internet service 350 baht

Electricity and water 400 baht

I don't even budget for food and restaurants since it's so cheap.

Haircut for men 100 baht

Massage per hour 200 baht

Beer 60 baht or 80 baht at a bar

Spectacular sunsets free every evening

Exchange rate is trending favorably and is up to 35.30 baht per dollar.

At this rate, I can't afford NOT to be here.

1) Small lake way out in the Thai boonies with Canada, USA and UK.

January 25, 2024 - Riding with friends, dental visit, track work

Enough of the serious stuff, sometimes a ride into the country with good friends makes for a perfect day. This is ad hoc cycling at its finest, no distance, no speed is set. It's like being a kid again and your mom wants you out of the house. As a bonus, you get to play with your favorite toy, the bicycle.

We meet at the corner of second road and soi Watboonkanchana at exactly 6 am. All arrangements are agreed upon using a messaging app called LINE. All the cyclists use this same app here.

Jittawan, the only Thai lady in this club, will decide the route. She has GPS and she has experience. The other rider is David Maybe. We have several Davids in this club. This David is so named because Maybe he will show up. He's a fine ole bloke from London who is determined to change his ways and become a role model for his beautiful Thai/English children. Cycling is his road to recovery.

We go to many of the familiar places using Jittawan's own route. It's long, meandering, scenic and most of the time I feel lost. The road system here is labyrinthine and most roads have no signage, not even in Thai. She's the perfect guide here and soon we are at the Many Coffee farm aka the Jungle bar. I've been here dozens of times, freshly ground Thai coffee, fresh produce from the farm and service with the widest smiles on the planet. We meet some of our friends from other clubs and I get the low down on speeds and styles. These guys like a reasonable speed of 30 kph which I thought was lower than expected. The "International" group likes it around 36 kph. This may be what they call "full gas". It can't be pleasant considering the conditions here. Cycling 23 miles per hour average on these roads... Suicidal! I had to out run a pack of street dogs on this ride. Maybe with their help I could keep up.

Distance for the ride was 63 km. Average speed was fun.

I don't do video content, so for an idea of what touring in Thailand is like, Johnny does a fantastic job. This video records his tour of the Mae Hong Son loop.

Watch "Solo bikepacking the most iconic route in Thailand - Mae Hong Son" on YouTube

https://youtu.be/TwWR1YYEoXE?si=Nrc3-H1m4xIH0Ba6

Thursday is an off day, so I made an appointment to get the choppers checked and cleaned one week ago. In and out in 15 minutes, no papers to sign, no insurance forms, just a hello and thank you. 1000 baht and I'm good until next year. As always, the only form of transport is the bike. I wish I could live so simply in the States.

Friday riding is a bit more serious. It is considered by this group to be speed or interval training. Only the core members participate. It's flat out racing around a track for 30 km with no obstacles and no stops. This is where I can set benchmarks and strive to reach goals in a safe cycling only environment. The goal this season is to top the hills at over 30 kph and maintain 40+ kph on the flats.

Track cycling day arrives and only one Dutchman shows up. We head out at 6 am on a longer, hillier route to the Mabprachan cycling track. The weather has changed. For the last three days it's been overcast and windy but temperatures are still reaching 90+. This is a better route than the usual one. We pass the Siam Polo Club and I presume this fact accounts for the better road conditions. There are no potholes, uneven storm grates nor packs of homeless animals. One thing I've noticed about the Dutch; they are on average the fastest cyclists. Go anywhere in the Netherlands and you'll be amazed by the number of cyclists. The ones that come here are the most avid, serious cyclists to be found anywhere. I tried to drop my friend several times on the track but to no avail. He was always on my wheel and stayed there to the end. We had a few Thai cyclists join our paceline during the 30 km circuit but all dropped before the hill. The Thais apparently don't like climbing.

We stopped for a coffee break at the track, talked to an English cyclist who has been living in Southern Spain but now wants to move to Thailand and then headed back to town with one small detour. The Dutchman wanted to do Buddha hill. It seems any hill with a Buddhist temple at the top is called Buddha hill. This one was steep, probably 15 to 20 degrees gradient, a real lung busting grinder. If you're clipped in, you can't stop at any point until it levels off at the top. We get to the top and he immediately turns for the descent. Sorry no photos this time.

We finish at 9:30 with 72 km for the day.

Next group ride is Sunday. I have no idea who or where. Every ride is a surprise.

Please stay tuned and keep up the riding,

Mike

1) Our guide to the countryside

2) At Silver lake with Mr. Maybe

3) At the dental clinic

4) The start of the track

5) Tea and Coffee at the end (YouTube Video) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwWR1YYEoXE&authuser=0

See Part 1 for prior entries

Please see 1/30/24 updates below in RED. Thank you!

As you know, Bill Gorodetzer has been encouraging everyone, especially Ride Leaders, to become familiar with CPR.  After all, you never know when you might need it.

Below is the information that Bill optained from Corey Kennedy, the Training Center Coordinator at Beebe Healthcare. 

What: American Heart Association Friends and Family CPR Class

When: Every 2^nd Tuesday of the month from 6-9:00 pm AND every 2nd Saturday from 9 am -12 noon. 

Where: Margaret H. Rollins School of Nursing, 424 Savannah Rd, Lewes (the brick building behind the hospital).

Cost:  Free

Details: The class is limited to 20 people.  It course teaches adult hands-only CPR, child CPR, infant CPR, automated external defibrillator (AED) use, and what to do when someone is choking. There is a combination of video lecture and hands-on practice with mannequins – dummies made specifically for medical education.

Reservation Required.  For more information or to reserve your spot, email Corey Kennedy at Ckennedy@beebehealthcare.org.  Please include the date you would like to attend, your cell number (to contact you if your session is canceled) and your affiliation with Sussex Cyclists (e.g., member, rides participant, rides Leadership or Ride Leader).

See Part 2 for subsequent entries

Follow Mike on his 2024 journey cycling through Thailand on his self-made bamboo bicycle. Check back often for updates!

January 22, 2024 - Cycling in Pratamnak park

I'm taking a day off of the intense cycling and cheating for the ride tomorrow. By cheating I mean studying the terrain before the actual ride. There are always ploys that can be used to one's own advantage especially on rides with steep climbs and sharp turns. This helped me with the SCC drop rides. I did the Texas and the OWB rides solo several times to get the lay of the land.

The killer ride here is on and around Pratamnak park. After today, I feel that I've got it... upshift here, downshift there, get out of the saddle at this point, relax and breathe deeply now. This process prepares the mind. Tonight I'll prepare the bike by waxing the chain, fine tuning the shifting and pumping up to 100 PSI. This hill is no joke.

After the drill, I walked around the Park going to places that are missed when racing with a group. It's quite a blissful, quiet and scenic park nestled between Pattaya and Jomtien beaches.

The Buddhist sanctuary at the crest of Pratamnak hill is a sacred place of devotion. Foreigners and non Buddhists are welcome to enjoy the peace, meditate, participate in the rituals and gain an understanding of Buddhist precepts. This is year 2567 Buddhist era.

The next day is today, Tuesday. The British climbing fanatic bowed out due to flu symptoms and only one other rider showed up, the Dutchman. This has to be the most unpopular ride in the province. It was once believed that only mountain bikes could reach the top. Now a few road cyclists have proven that supposition to be wrong, a very few. I do believe that one hour on this hill with multiple climbs is better training than many hours and many kilometers on easier routes. In that hour, the cyclists can take the cardio to the max, the resistance to the breaking point and finish in a sweat drenched heap. On this ride, there were no stops. Once the summit is reached it's right back down again. Holding back on the brakes to keep the speed within safe limits on the downhill is almost as tiring. At the base there may be a short respite as we ride to the next upward approach because these nuts climb the same hill 5 times. Is there a way to replicate this experience on a home trainer? No! I discussed this with the Dutchman after the ride. How can you duplicate the dodging and weaving around soi dogs, killer storm grates, tire destroying potholes, speed bumps and rumble strips? Not to mention the heat, the sometimes poor air quality, the accumulated fatique of cycling daily. Forget it. The only way is to get on that jet plane and come here.

Quickly, the ride is over. We discuss the ride and future rides (tougher hills to come), drink our hydration electrolyte liquid and part ways. I cool down by riding another 15 km at the beach. The scenes are fantastic.

Ahh, photos taken on the off day ride...

1) Stairs ascending Big Buddha hill

2) Attitude needed to get to the top

3) Before training in Thailand

4) After training in Thailand

5) View 200 meters above sea level

6) Muay Thai kick boxing training

January 21, 2024 - Metric century ride to Phala beach

I feared this would be one long ride, not only for the distance but also for the number of stops needed to eat and rehydrate. It's cool in the morning but as soon as that tropical sun peeks over the horizon, the heat is on. We had a larger than normal group of eight cyclists representing five countries, Thailand, Canada, Netherlands, UK and US. Some of the riders joined us outside of town waiting at a 7-11 store. There are thousands of 7-11s here.

The ride was hilly because we avoided the coastal highway, preferring quieter and more scenic back roads. Phala was chosen as the halfway point, although we visited two other beaches as well. All were more or less beautiful, typically Thai with temples, archways, gardens of bougainvillea and coconut trees lining the route.

We stopped at a nearby restaurant which was built within a bamboo forest. I Bong restaurant was the name. There is no polite translation for this place name. Every breakfast ordered was delicious and less than 100 baht. That's 3 bucks for a filling breakfast, Thai style, with fresh coffee and a Thai dessert. I will frequently mention the low costs here for nearly everything locally produced. It's quite easy to find a good meal in the Thai market for 40 baht and local beer for 60 baht at a bar. Hah, even cheaper at 7-11.

We got back to town at 1 in the afternoon, much too hot at that time to be cycling, 32 C which is over 90 for sure.

Total kilometers was 103. There were 5 water stops. Dehydration is a constant concern. All the cyclists use an electrolyte power to mix with the water. A month supply costs 100 baht at the pharmacy. Currently, the exchange rate is very favorable at 35 baht to the US dollar.

Thus ends a typical week of cycling every day, about 300 km this week but I'm not counting.

Stay warm if possible my SCC friends,

Mike

Phala beach 

Breakfast at I Bong in the bamboo 

I Bong entrance 

January 20, 2024

Just got back from watching the sunset over the Gulf of Thailand, dinner at side walk cafe, then stopped at fruit stand.

Here's 200 baht 5 bucks of fruit, grown here. Thai bananas, papaya, mango, passion fruit and avocado. Rambutan and oranges thrown in as a bonus.

Only 3 days supply.

Sunday tomorrow will be a century ride to Phala beach in Rayong province. Stay tuned! It just gets better...

January 19, 2024

It looks like I'll be joining groups here 4 or more times a week. Thursday was an off day giving me time to stock up on groceries at the Farang market and Thai markets. Farang is Thai for anyone not Thai but primarily Western foreigners. At the Farang market I can get items like bread, yogurt, oatmeal, etc. Like in the States, prices are fixed. All produce and fruit I buy at Thai markets where prices are always negotiable. To negotiate prices, a thorough knowledge of the Thai language is required otherwise you get the Farang price. A few snappy phrases in Thai and your price will drop in half.

You need no car here, a bicycle is all that's needed. I strap on an empty back pack and fill it up before returning to home base. I have never seen any cyclist drive a car to a group ride starting point.

The interval training at the lake side cycling track is a regular Friday 60 km group ride. This group maintains a 32 kph pace on the flats, 26 kph on the climbs and 36-40 kph on the 5 km home stretch. The only goal I have here is to break 30 kph at the crest of the hill and to pull over 40 kph on the final stretch. No one who has invested thousands of dollars in a carbon bicycle wants a guy on a hand built bamboo bike to drop them. They will stay on my wheel no matter how much it hurts. I've noticed this same phenomenon on our 18.5 mph drop rides. It's always best to leave the ego at home.

We had a long coffee break at a lake side cafe and then the usual rush back to town at 40 kph, a slight decline helps here. Each rider splits off where convenient and I'm back at the apartment at 10 am.

The next ride I will join is a metric century to Pala beach in Rayong province on Sunday. A Thai lady will join the group to photograph along the way. Should be hilarious!

Below are photos of the resort where I stay and Thai markets just up the street.

Later,

Mike

1) Endless salt water pool

2) Reverse osmosis machine for drinking water

3) Gym

4) Fruit stand with local tropical fruit

5) Fresh local vegetables at market

6) Mobile street food vendor

January 17, 2024

Perfect condition today for the club ride to Bang Saray beach with two flying Dutchmen and two Brits. Hold on there are photos this time. We started out from town later than normal, 6:15 am and picked up the flying Dutchmen brothers en route. These guys like to ride fast and then take long breaks. Nothing is the same as we in Sussex are used to. There is no paceline. You think leading groups in Sussex is like herding cats. Here it's like herding cats on methamphetamines. I'm sure it gets worse in the bigger groups. There may be cyclists from a dozen countries each with their own peculiar cycling culture. Fortunately, this ride was labled as a scenic ride with photo ops.

Sorry but I couldn't stop to photograph the ten foot cobra crossing the road. I will say that it was nice to see motorists stop to allow the snake a safe crossing. Buddhists are like that. It may be dear departed uncle Somchai in his reincarnation. He did have that habit after all.

Bang Saray on Wednesdays is always rather empty I am told. It's a beach popular with Thais and gets busy on weekends and holidays.

Let's describe the ride. We had one slow rider who is just rejoining the club after some medical problems. So for the first half we moved rather slowly for his benefit. We took our first break at the jungle bar and enjoyed some fresh cappuccino. Our slower rider decided he had enough and we parted ways. Here the pace picked up to their normal speed. I am now going metric. When in Rome...BTW the whole world is Rome but with one barbaric outlier. Their normal speed for the rest of the ride was around 30 kph, not real fast but there are a lot of hills in this region and some of the roads in Bang Saray are quite busy.

We stopped one more time for some photo ops at the beach. This was a social ride for the most part and also an opportunity to check out the area for future rides; good restaurants, good roads, clean, it all checked out well.

Ahh, the race back to the starting point, these guys can't help it. There's got to be some competition. Once we reached the principal highway, it was a straight 20k shot back to Jomtien beach. The road is smooth and flat with plenty of shoulder, a rare condition here. These guys aren't the fastest in this area. There are more competitive groups of former Euro team cyclists. Hah, not ready for that! But we pushed the needle to 40 kph most of the way passing many motorized vehicles, the three wheeled trikes, tuktuks, can be quite slow.

The ride total was 75 kilometers. Average 23 kph

Best sprint on the flat 47 kph

It always seems easier here, must be the spicy food.

Later,

Mike

Bamboo bike at the jungle bar

The last three survivors on the ride

Beach scenes at tropical Bang Saray

January 15, 2024

And they said it couldn't be done

My first week in Thailand is behind me and the jetlag has completely subsided. I'm no longer dizzy and disoriented. For a few days I couldn't know for sure if my experience was real or something from a dream.

As for cycling, during that first week I cycled 125 miles, 3 group rides and some solo rides around town. I will be shifting to the metric system soon. To those unfamiliar with it, 25 miles equals 40 kilometers, mental math it from there.

I'm using my flatlander groupset here, so perfect for Sussex county roads. It's a 1 x 11 SRAM Apex. The crankset is a Shimano GRX with a 50 tooth chainring. The cluster has 11-28 teeth. My ride this Tuesday morning was with a small subset of cyclists who love climbing. It's a very small subset, only two showed up. The other cyclists I've met think we're mad to ride on Pratamnak hill, a promontory that separates Pattaya from Jomtien, but it's perfect for training. There is nothing that will get the cyclist to the next level like hill climbs. Embrace it and flat land riding will seem like child's play.

As all of you know, I encounter a lot of skepticism because of my DIY approach, a hand made bamboo bike, a 1 x 11 groupset... it'll never work. I don't blame the skeptics, they've been convinced by the bicycle industry with million dollar advertising campaigns to think a certain way. Like a bumblebee that's not supposed to fly, just do it. The belief here was that I would not be able to pull these hills with such a small gear range. The gradient is quite steep, perhaps 15 degrees or more and they climb this hill five times. Each time the hill is attacked from a different direction using a different path. The Dutchmen and biggest skeptic broke his shifter on the first hill and had to wait out the ride. The bamboo had no problem although I had to get out of the saddle on the steepest sections. It was only the British climber and I for the rest of the ride, grinding up and flying down, twisting into hairpin turns, dodging wandering dogs and rough potholed roads again and again. Honestly, a larger gear range would be helpful here but we finished the ride side by side and I made a few more believers. Yes, it works! These were the toughest hill climbs this part of Thailand has to offer. The other hills will be a breeze.

Tomorrow is Wednesday and we take a longer ride to Bang Saray beach. I promise to get some photos. It should be quite beautiful.

It's not a dream,

Mike

January 14, 2024

Sunday morning at 6 am the Dutchmen meet on a street corner, head out of town and collect Dutchmen on the way. We were heading to the adjoining province of Rayong. A coffee shop there called Phufa Coffee attracts cyclists from all over. They have plenty of bike racks and terrific cappuccinos.

This was a long ride for one morning with some serious climbing. The scenery was quite spectacular. We passed through rubber plantations, mango orchards and cassava fields while climbing to the coffee shop perched on the side of a mountain. Their entire business seems to rely on cyclists stopping for a coffee break. Indeed, there were many cyclists sweating profusely as they reached the top of the hill. Most so out of breath that they couldn't talk for a minute or so.

From there it's mostly downhill back to town. I had already consumed all my water so a second stop was needed. Another coffee shop but this one by the lake, Sien View Cafe on Silver lake. This one is also favored by cyclists and I got to field questions about the bamboo bike. A crowd of cyclists collected around the bike out of curiosity. This happens nearly every time I stop somewhere. The Euro bikes, the Chinese bikes, the Japanese bikes get no notice at all but the one American bike catches their eye every time.

Back to town and the pace picks up to 20-22 mph on the open flats, 18 mph through the towns. We're passing vehicles of all sorts. This is crazy but one has to keep up. I don't know where we're going. The bamboo bike handles the rough roads smoothly. My main concern is the carbon front fork and the wheels. The tires bottom out on the rims too many times despite 100 psi.

Finally we reach town and have breakfast. 110 baht for coffee, two eggs, toast, jam, butter, two strips of bacon, salad, orange juice, grilled potatoes and water. That's less than 3 dollars. I bought two pairs of socks and a swim suit yesterday for 145 baht, $4.50. This would have cost me more than 50 dollars at Tangier outlet.

We did over 50 miles, 85 kilometers to be precise and got back before noon. Done for the day.

I'm looking forward to hill climbs with the climbing group. I'm afraid my 50 tooth chain ring with a 11-28 cluster will not get me to the top of Pratamnak hill. It can be steep. They do this on Tuesday. If I am wise, I'll try the climb solo Monday morning. Why didn't I bring the 11-42 cluster? Will I have to walk up? What a grind that will be.

Later,
Mike

January 12, 2024

This is what it's like, a very typical ride although this is not the best route. There are many much more scenic; lakes, mountains, temples, wildlife sanctuaries, jungles, etc. Notice the green cycling lanes.

Click here for YouTube Video

January 11, 2024

It's 30 minutes before my 6 am Friday ride. I've been awake since 2 am. The rule of thumb regarding jetlag is to allow one day of recovery for every hour of time displacement. I've got a week to go before synching totally.

Apologies to my friends, all good cyclists, who are somewhat adverse to servicing their bicycles. Let us say that you will have a greater level of confidence on a bike if you know how to fix it in any situation. I used the water bottle bike stand as an example. It works, it got the job done, it saved me time and money. I will stop here as it is time to meet the group. It is totally dark at 6:00 am.

Back from the ride at 10 am. There were only 2 other riders. The core of Jomtien cycling club and their fastest riders. They were waiting for me at a nearby 7-11. These guys would have no trouble on our 18.5 drop rides. They like fast and are undaunted by the terrible roads, street dogs, and busy market areas. Mabprachan lake is about 10 miles outside of town. It's a steady climb all the way. To avoid busy roads, we wend and wind our way through markets, pass temples, enter dog infested alleys and hopefully exit unscathed. It's all quite exhilarating and a bit scary especially in darkness. The workout begins at the lake. By this time, the sun has risen and the heat is on. There's always a foggy mist hanging over the lake which quickly burns off. Surrounding the lake is a 10 kilometer bike track, cyclists only and no crazy dog walkers with pepper spray. Thai people don't walk dogs. I love that. Once on the bike track, we can open up the pipes. There are hills, even here. On the flats they maintain 18-20 mph. Climbing the hills, they try to maintain speed while increasing the wattage. It may slow down to 16 mph but they push it all the way to the top. This is the real workout and these guys love their hills. Last year they dropped me every time. This year with the bamboo bike, it's a different story. They may kick me out of the club and I'll have to ride with Euro maniacs if I drop them on the hills.

We finished the last 5 kilometer stretch at 22 mph. It's a gradual upgrade most of the way and maintaining this speed provides the best interval of the entire ride. This is where the sweat begins to pour. It's over 90 degrees by this time. Luckily, we're in the cold season. It will get worse as April is the start of the hot season.

Well, they don't do beer as far as I know. We stopped at a coffee shop at the lake, met some friends and rehydrated before heading back to town. I'm sorry I have no photos. It is quite beautiful especially the country side and the jungles. We passed through a jungle on the Wednesday ride cheered on by scores of monkeys. This sure ain't Kansas, Dorothy.

We did 40 miles today which is average. By the time we reached town, we were dripping with sweat. A good ride for sure. Next ride is Sunday for the long but most scenic ride into the mountains. Hopefully we will have a larger group.

To return to a topic I initiated, servicing the bike. On my return to Sussex county, I would gladly give tips on zen and the art of bicycle maintenance. Apologies to Robert Persig. I do hope you've read his book. I've invited several club members to drop by my shop. Tom Sheehan and Steve Smith are the only two members who have dared enter the only bamboo frame building facility on the Eastern shore. In fact Tom has done some work for me and the bike I'm riding now has parts machined by Tom. In the process of building Tom's bamboo bike last year, he was with it all the way. So now, he can service his own bikes. You should never miss a ride because you have to take your bike to the shop unless you prefer throwing away your money. There's a work shop available and I charge nothing. Full stop. That's my apology.

The water bottle bike stand. Tie your front wheel to a vertical surface. I used the kitchen table and two short bungee cords. Lift the rear of the bike onto your water bottle by placing it under the bottom bracket. What else is it for? Now you can adjust your gears as the rear wheel can freely spin. As for adjusting the gears, that too is easy. Until I get back, just YouTube it. There must be a hundred videos on the topic.

Time to work on my tan.

Later,
Mike in Thailand

January 10, 2024 - Zen and the art of bicycle maintenance

Wednesday morning I joined a small group of six for a slow ride to Silver lake. The bicycle was totally untested and as always many adjustments would be needed. Keep in mind that in order pack the bike compactly I had to completely disassemble it; pedals, crankset, derailleur, chain, cluster, handlebar, seat, seat post. All these were packed and wrapped with the frame in a suitcase size box. I also packed a small tool set; Allen keys, chain pliers, long nose pliers, screwdriver. 

We started before dawn and were at the lake at sunrise. It was a motley group of Brits and one Thai lady, our photographer, a good group in this case since I mainly wanted to road test the bike. All went well. A few minor adjustments to the brakes and gears would be needed but that was expected.

Here's where the zen comes in aka Yankee ingenuity. Of course I didn't bring a bike stand which is needed to adjust gears. In the photos is the tool kit and the water bottle bike stand. Everything is adjusted perfectly now and I'm ready for the next ride. A good cyclist should be able to work on their own bike. It's a dang bicycle not the space shuttle. 

Next ride is Friday with a faster group. We will be riding to lake Mabprachan which has a 10 kilometer bike track encircling it. 

Stay warm,
Mike

Dawn at Silver lake
  

Tools
 

Bike stand

January 8, 2024 - Thai arrival

I just arrived in Thailand yesterday morning at 1am. Bike arrived as well but it was an anxious thirty minutes waiting for it at baggage claim, worn but not broken. Waited several hours at Suvarnabhumi airport for first bus to Jomtien beach. Two hours to Jomtien and my cycling buddy was waiting for me in the bus station at 9:30. No car! He has a small motorbike. I had to ride on the pillion with a bicycle on my lap, a backpack and a duffle bag between my legs. Typical Thailand behavior. Glad I didn't bring the grand kids. 

My cycling buddy, Rinus, showed me to my new quarters on the 8th floor of the Park Lane Jomtien Resort. The apartment has all amenities, 250 USD a month. He then took me around the resort, gym, and pool. Outside within 200 meters, are restaurants, laundry, bakery, convenience stores, fruit stands, all very convenient. It should be three months of easy living. 

I assembled the bike this morning at 2am. Jet lag is not too bad this trip but several days are needed to synch sleep pattern, 12 hour time difference. 

This first full day is mainly for food shopping and getting the bike finished. I still need wheels because I decided that packing wheels would be too bulky. I hope to be rolling this week. 

Weather is hot and dry. It is now 30 degrees Celsius about 90 Fahrenheit. December through March is the cold season with very little rain.

Tomorrow the Jomtien cycling club meets at 6am for a short ride to Silver lake. I expect about 6-8 riders and a moderate pace similar to the Dewey beer Monday ride, a good break in and road test for the bike and me. Bill, feel free to post this email to the club if you like.

Later,
Mike

Park Lane Jomtien Resort
 

Road to Silver lake taken last year

 

Linda Snader, thank for sharing this wonderful photo of snow on Gordon's Pond trail. For a moment I thought you took it!